In the world of woodworking and construction, there are plenty of "unwritten rules" passed down through generations. While much of this wisdom is valuable, some of it is outdated or just plain wrong—especially when it comes to saw blades. Believing common myths about round saw blades doesn't just lead to frustration; it can cost you time, ruin expensive materials, and even compromise your safety.
Let's debunk five of the most common misconceptions about round saw blades. Understanding the truth will help you make better choices, achieve cleaner cuts, and get the most value from your tools.
Myth 1: More Teeth Always Equals a Better Finish
This is one of the most persistent myths. It seems logical that more teeth would produce a smoother cut, and in some cases, that's true. However, it's not a universal rule. The ideal tooth count depends entirely on the material you are cutting and the direction of the cut.
When More Teeth are Better
For crosscutting (cutting across the wood grain) or slicing through delicate materials like laminates, melamine, and plywood, a blade with a high tooth count (60T to 100T) is your best choice. The smaller teeth take smaller bites, shearing the wood fibres cleanly and dramatically reducing splintering, or "tear-out." This gives you that crisp, factory-like edge.
When More Teeth are a Hindrance
For rip-cutting (cutting along the wood grain), a blade with fewer teeth (24T to 40T) is far more efficient. The large gaps, or gullets, between the teeth are designed to clear away long strands of wood fibre and sawdust quickly. Using a high-tooth-count blade for ripping will cause it to clog, overheat, and burn the wood. It forces you to push the saw much harder, leading to a slow, difficult cut and putting unnecessary strain on your saw's motor.
The Truth: The right number of teeth depends on the job. Fewer teeth for fast rip cuts, more teeth for fine-finish crosscuts.
Myth 2: All Round Blades Fit All Saws
Picking a blade off the shelf just because it looks right is a recipe for disaster. While many blades share common diameters, you cannot assume universal compatibility. Two critical measurements must match your saw perfectly: the diameter and the arbor hole size.
Diameter and Arbor (Bore) Size
The diameter of the blade must be the correct size for your saw (e.g., 165mm, 185mm, 190mm). Using a blade that is too large can prevent the guard from functioning correctly and is incredibly dangerous. A blade that is too small won't give you the required depth of cut.
The arbor hole (or bore) is the hole in the centre that mounts onto the saw's spindle. This must be an exact fit. A blade with an oversized arbor hole will be off-centre, causing violent vibrations that can damage the saw and create a hazardous cutting situation. While some blades come with reduction rings to fit different arbor sizes, a direct fit is always the safest option.
The Truth: Always check your saw’s specifications for the exact blade diameter and arbor size required. Never force a blade to fit.
Myth 3: You Don’t Need to Clean Your Blade
A saw blade is a cutting tool, not a sanding disc. Over time, wood resins, pitch, and glue from materials like MDF and plywood build up on the blade's teeth and body. Many people mistake the poor performance of a dirty blade for a dull one and throw it away.
How Buildup Affects Performance
This sticky residue creates significant friction as the blade spins through the material. This friction generates immense heat, which can cause the blade to warp and the wood to burn. It also makes the teeth less effective, as they have to push through a layer of gunk before they can even touch the wood. The result is a slow, difficult cut that requires much more force from you and your saw. A dirty blade is a primary cause of scorch marks on your workpiece.
The Truth: A clean blade is an efficient blade. Regularly cleaning your blades with a specialised blade cleaner and a stiff brush will restore performance, reduce heat, and significantly extend their lifespan.
Myth 4: One Blade Is Enough for All Materials
The idea of a single, do-it-all blade is tempting, but it’s a fantasy. Blades are highly engineered for specific materials. The geometry of the teeth, the grade of the carbide, and the design of the blade body are all optimised for a particular task.
Why Material-Specific Blades Matter
Using the wrong blade is inefficient and dangerous. A wood-cutting blade used on metal will have its teeth stripped in seconds, potentially sending carbide fragments flying. A framing blade used on a laminate countertop will result in a chipped, ugly mess. A diamond blade for masonry has no teeth at all and grinds through material; using it on wood would just burn and polish it. You wouldn't use a butter knife to chop vegetables, so don't use a wood blade to cut steel.
The Truth: For the best results and utmost safety, you must match the blade to the material. Building a small collection of blades for wood, fine-finish work, and metal is a wise investment.
Myth 5: As Long as a Blade Is Sharp, It’s Safe
Sharpness is crucial, but it's only one part of the safety equation. A blade can be razor-sharp and still be incredibly dangerous if it has other defects.
Other Critical Safety Factors
- Balance and Runout: A high-quality blade is perfectly balanced to spin true. A cheap or damaged blade might have "runout," meaning it wobbles from side to side as it spins. This vibration leads to rough cuts and can cause the blade to bind or kick back.
- Missing or Chipped Teeth: During a visual inspection, if you see any carbide teeth that are chipped or missing entirely, the blade is no longer safe. The imbalance can cause dangerous vibrations, and the blade is at risk of catastrophic failure during a cut.
- Proper Mounting: Even a perfect blade is unsafe if mounted incorrectly. Ensure it is installed in the correct direction of rotation (indicated by an arrow) and that the flange and arbor nut are securely tightened.
The Truth: Blade safety goes beyond sharpness. Regularly inspect your blades for any signs of damage, and discard any that are chipped, warped, or unbalanced.
Bonus: Lesser-Known Myths
- Coatings are just for looks: Those colourful coatings on premium blades are anti-friction layers that reduce heat, prevent resin buildup, and fight corrosion, helping the blade perform better for longer.
- Cheap blades are fine for occasional use: While tempting, cheap blades are often poorly balanced, made with inferior carbide, and dull quickly. A single quality blade will outlast several cheap ones and provide better, safer cuts every time.
Conclusion
Don't let these common myths compromise the quality of your work or your safety. Take a moment to evaluate the blades you are currently using. Are they clean? Are they the right type for the material you’re cutting? Are they free from damage? Being mindful of these details is what separates an amateur from a true craftsperson.
Ready to upgrade to a blade that’s built on truth, not myths? Explore our extensive range of high-quality round saw blades and find the perfect match for your next project.